Siena and Frances Mayes: You Get to Live Twice
Even though the alarm goes off at 6am, today is a fabulous day! I think it is funny how there is no complaining about the plans for the day when I am not the one controlling the schedule. Greg seems to have no trouble surrendering control to Tauck. I myself cannot resist the urge to maintain some autonomy.
Today we are off to Siena and I have devised an escape plan. Especially after two cappuccinos, I am ready to bolt. I become the rebel and wander as far as I can from the group, tethered invisibly by the Vox (audio tour guide system). As long as I can hear the guide's voice, I know they aren't far. But getting lost right now is the adventure I am yearning for.
Siena is near and dear to my heart. Every day, several times a day, on our stairs I pass my favorite picture of Greg and me - from the top of Siena's tower, the second tallest in Italy. Like 2011 was just yesterday, I remember our nap right in the middle of Siena's great central piazza, Il Campo.
Tauck drops us right in the middle of the traffic-free core - an impressive service that even their regular tours don't earn.
The interior of Siena's duomo, decorated from top to bottom, comes with the heads of 172 popes peering down from the ceiling. The overall impact is so impressive, I don't even notice the reiteration of the same four heads over and over. I did observe, however, that "Gregorius" is repeated often, as 16 popes have claimed Greg's name.
We focus on the floor especially now because October is the only time we can see all of it uncovered. The group sits off to the side for almost 20 minutes while I steal away to study the details of the ornate interior, decorated from top to bottom. To me, Siena's Duomo is a must see, but don't just take my word for it. Vasari describes it as "The most beautiful..., largest and most magnificent...ever made". He was specifically referring to the floor, sheathed entirely in mosaics.
Next, Tauck pulled off a incredible treat. Siena has 17 contrades - essentially neighborhoods but with a huge brotherhood, belonging effect - that are so much a part of the fabric of life in Siena. We had the rare privilege of going behind closed doors into one of the contrade neighborhoods, the noble contrada of Bruco - the caterpillars (think wealthy silk makers not squishy insects). From Dario Castagna's excellent presentation we learned all about the history of the contrade and what it is like to belong to one.
An expert on il Palio, the famous biannual horse race that began in the Middle Ages and is still run at the Piazza del Campo today, Dario shared his insights on the lasting loyalties vivdly displayed by each contrada during the Palio.
The fascinating Palio is all about fate. The Palio is a very quick horse race that takes place in Il Campo twice a year. The way the Palio works is that each contrada races once a year, and then a lucky 3 more will win the lottery to race a second time that year. The race horses are randomly drawn; the contrada hires a jockey.
What is amazing is how many years can go between winnings. You could go a lifetime with only experiencing one championship. The caterpillar were sure they had just won the last race in August, and actually celebrated for several minutes, until a photo finish proved their loss to the riderless horse of the giraffe contrada. Winning a Palio comes with colossal satisfaction and pride and even tears. It is a big deal. They last won in August 2008.
Tonight's dinner was the namesake of our "Under the Tuscan Sun" Tauck event when the acclaimed author France Mayes shared stories of her best selling books and personal experiences under the Tuscan Sun!
We were guests of honor at the event - seated at the head table with Robin Tauck. I like to think it is because we are special, but it is actually because they invited my mom to the table and were polite enough to keep us together. The five "high rollers" sat at the table; with 45 trips, mom has the second highest amount here.
From our seats at the head table, I could see the thick manuscript Frances wrote just for us. It was unlike any speech I have heard before. Elloquent and natural, she spoke to us as if she were composing her next novel and we were her fictional characters. She transported us from the banquet to the pages of her Tuscany adventure. Here are a few impactful observations she shared with us:
Then she said the words that hit home the most, "The best thing about being a writer is you get to live twice." That defines me and why I love my life. But I get to live infinitely each time we travel. First I am transported to far off lands while I thoroughly plan each detail of our next adventure. Then we live it. Then I blog it. Then I immortalized it in a scrapbook whose pages whisk me away again and again.
Today we are off to Siena and I have devised an escape plan. Especially after two cappuccinos, I am ready to bolt. I become the rebel and wander as far as I can from the group, tethered invisibly by the Vox (audio tour guide system). As long as I can hear the guide's voice, I know they aren't far. But getting lost right now is the adventure I am yearning for.
Siena is near and dear to my heart. Every day, several times a day, on our stairs I pass my favorite picture of Greg and me - from the top of Siena's tower, the second tallest in Italy. Like 2011 was just yesterday, I remember our nap right in the middle of Siena's great central piazza, Il Campo.
Siena's Il Campo
Tauck drops us right in the middle of the traffic-free core - an impressive service that even their regular tours don't earn.
We start our tour with the cathedral. The Duomo's striped facade is piled with statues and ornamentation. The bell tower looks taller than it is, as the stripes get narrower toward the top.
Inside Siena's duomo
The interior of Siena's duomo, decorated from top to bottom, comes with the heads of 172 popes peering down from the ceiling. The overall impact is so impressive, I don't even notice the reiteration of the same four heads over and over. I did observe, however, that "Gregorius" is repeated often, as 16 popes have claimed Greg's name.
172 popes peer down at you while you visit Siena's duomo
We focus on the floor especially now because October is the only time we can see all of it uncovered. The group sits off to the side for almost 20 minutes while I steal away to study the details of the ornate interior, decorated from top to bottom. To me, Siena's Duomo is a must see, but don't just take my word for it. Vasari describes it as "The most beautiful..., largest and most magnificent...ever made". He was specifically referring to the floor, sheathed entirely in mosaics.
The marble floor took almost two centuries to complete. The mosaic inlay technique is so perfected that it manages to achieve a chiaroscuro effect.
Next, Tauck pulled off a incredible treat. Siena has 17 contrades - essentially neighborhoods but with a huge brotherhood, belonging effect - that are so much a part of the fabric of life in Siena. We had the rare privilege of going behind closed doors into one of the contrade neighborhoods, the noble contrada of Bruco - the caterpillars (think wealthy silk makers not squishy insects). From Dario Castagna's excellent presentation we learned all about the history of the contrade and what it is like to belong to one.
Siena's Contrada of Bruco
An expert on il Palio, the famous biannual horse race that began in the Middle Ages and is still run at the Piazza del Campo today, Dario shared his insights on the lasting loyalties vivdly displayed by each contrada during the Palio.
The fascinating Palio is all about fate. The Palio is a very quick horse race that takes place in Il Campo twice a year. The way the Palio works is that each contrada races once a year, and then a lucky 3 more will win the lottery to race a second time that year. The race horses are randomly drawn; the contrada hires a jockey.
What is amazing is how many years can go between winnings. You could go a lifetime with only experiencing one championship. The caterpillar were sure they had just won the last race in August, and actually celebrated for several minutes, until a photo finish proved their loss to the riderless horse of the giraffe contrada. Winning a Palio comes with colossal satisfaction and pride and even tears. It is a big deal. They last won in August 2008.
I took a picture of the contrada's chapel because I found it fascinating that the only religious activity that takes place here is the blessing of the horse. Nothing else.
Tonight's dinner was the namesake of our "Under the Tuscan Sun" Tauck event when the acclaimed author France Mayes shared stories of her best selling books and personal experiences under the Tuscan Sun!
We were guests of honor at the event - seated at the head table with Robin Tauck. I like to think it is because we are special, but it is actually because they invited my mom to the table and were polite enough to keep us together. The five "high rollers" sat at the table; with 45 trips, mom has the second highest amount here.
"You're in the club now. This is a cult. " Robin Tauck said to Greg and me. Robin is so gracious and makes us feel at ease.
From our seats at the head table, I could see the thick manuscript Frances wrote just for us. It was unlike any speech I have heard before. Elloquent and natural, she spoke to us as if she were composing her next novel and we were her fictional characters. She transported us from the banquet to the pages of her Tuscany adventure. Here are a few impactful observations she shared with us:
- Irrational decisions in your life turn out to be the best ones.
- If you follow your deepest instincts you can choose your own luck.
- I felt great rushes of happiness.
- Your perception expands when you travel.
Then she said the words that hit home the most, "The best thing about being a writer is you get to live twice." That defines me and why I love my life. But I get to live infinitely each time we travel. First I am transported to far off lands while I thoroughly plan each detail of our next adventure. Then we live it. Then I blog it. Then I immortalized it in a scrapbook whose pages whisk me away again and again.
I feel great rushes of happiness.
Frances Mayes' new book "See You in the Piazza" was Tauck's gift to us tonight
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