Cattedrale di Monreale on the Outskirts of Palermo
A great way to start a morning at the villa in Agrigento might be to sleep in followed with breakfast on the patio beneath the canopy of olive trees sipping cappuccino overlooking the Temple of Concordia. We, however, had a car to return and a bus to catch. So my version is the same but in a higher gear. Here the early bird gets to watch a typical Sicilian morning with the villa's owners, dog, and kittens - while sipping cappuccino beneath the canopy of olive trees and taking in the amazing view.
In order to stay on the day's schedule and catch the 9am bus to Palermo, timing was critical. We had to be at the Europcar car return (in town) when it opened and then walk a mile to the bus station - all within 30 minutes. However, opening the rental shop at 8:30am was a mere suggestion, apparently some of Sicily's "unannounced changes in opening hours" I had read about (but not expected from an International company). The guy came 20 minutes late - and fortunately didn't even hesitate to kindly drive us to the station. So we stayed on schedule.
In 827 AD, when Arabs arrived and filled Palermo with 100,000 people, it was the second largest city in Europe (behind Spain's Córdoba). Today it is Sicily's capital and most-populated city. Sitting close to where Europe ends and Africa begins, Palermo bears the influence of centuries of domination.
After dropping off our bags, we were in search of Palermo's infamous street food for lunch. I headed to Ballaro Market for fresh fish for Greg.
Next, I was determined to get to Monreale - about 20 minutes outside of Palermo. It is a church and our regular blog readers have likely noticed we aren't big in visiting churches. According to an old Sicilian proverb, whoever visits Palermo without visiting Monreale arrives a donkey and leaves an ass. I sensed this was no ordinary church and I didn't want to leave with any regrets.
I contemplated various ways to get to Monreale: drive, hire a driver, taxi, or public transportation. Hiring a guide or using a taxi (that is what the guide does) sounded so tempting but the taxi would be €60-100. With limited information on the internet, and after spending hours figuring out how to catch the bus there, I decided we could attempt the bus for a whopping €3 per person round trip.
What is so special about seeing Monreale? This humble hillside town claims one of Sicily's greatest cultural treasures, the World Heritage–listed Cattedrale di Monreale. Not only is it one of the greatest examples of Norman architecture in Europe, it is better known for its majestic mosaic-encrusted interior. The confluence of Islamic, Byzantine and Romanesque styles, civilizations and faith systems makes Monreale unique.
Like all artwork in churches, the mosaics were designed for illiterate worshippers to be able to "read". However, these images extensively depict Christ, the saints and prophets, and the stories from Old and New Testament.
What impacted me the most was seeing and learning about Christ Pantocrator, the "Ruler of All". While his face looks unskillfully distorted, it was actually intended to be half life-like and half lifeless to symbolize Christ as both human and divine.
Immediately after leaving the church, we sinned. The bus driver's ticket supply was "finite" and we rode it anyway. Palermo, we owe you €3.
After dinner we tried to follow our B&B's advice and have a drink overlooking a piazza. Instead we stumbled upon La Vucciria. After the day market closes, it becomes a lively night scene with great ambiance.
In order to stay on the day's schedule and catch the 9am bus to Palermo, timing was critical. We had to be at the Europcar car return (in town) when it opened and then walk a mile to the bus station - all within 30 minutes. However, opening the rental shop at 8:30am was a mere suggestion, apparently some of Sicily's "unannounced changes in opening hours" I had read about (but not expected from an International company). The guy came 20 minutes late - and fortunately didn't even hesitate to kindly drive us to the station. So we stayed on schedule.
In 827 AD, when Arabs arrived and filled Palermo with 100,000 people, it was the second largest city in Europe (behind Spain's Córdoba). Today it is Sicily's capital and most-populated city. Sitting close to where Europe ends and Africa begins, Palermo bears the influence of centuries of domination.
After dropping off our bags, we were in search of Palermo's infamous street food for lunch. I headed to Ballaro Market for fresh fish for Greg.
Palermo has so much fresh seafood
At Ballaro Market's Panineria-Friggitoria da Umby & Tony, Greg chose calamari - which was very good (and greasy).
I had sfincione - like a pizza bread. It is spongy on the inside, crispy on the outside, and covered with a layer of minced tomatoes and onions. I could probably eat it every day.
Next, I was determined to get to Monreale - about 20 minutes outside of Palermo. It is a church and our regular blog readers have likely noticed we aren't big in visiting churches. According to an old Sicilian proverb, whoever visits Palermo without visiting Monreale arrives a donkey and leaves an ass. I sensed this was no ordinary church and I didn't want to leave with any regrets.
I contemplated various ways to get to Monreale: drive, hire a driver, taxi, or public transportation. Hiring a guide or using a taxi (that is what the guide does) sounded so tempting but the taxi would be €60-100. With limited information on the internet, and after spending hours figuring out how to catch the bus there, I decided we could attempt the bus for a whopping €3 per person round trip.
What is so special about seeing Monreale? This humble hillside town claims one of Sicily's greatest cultural treasures, the World Heritage–listed Cattedrale di Monreale. Not only is it one of the greatest examples of Norman architecture in Europe, it is better known for its majestic mosaic-encrusted interior. The confluence of Islamic, Byzantine and Romanesque styles, civilizations and faith systems makes Monreale unique.
The mosaics cover the entirety of the upper church - 2.5 acres - and contain $100 million in gold. Due to a wedding in progress, the lights were turned on, making it much easier to see the details.
Like all artwork in churches, the mosaics were designed for illiterate worshippers to be able to "read". However, these images extensively depict Christ, the saints and prophets, and the stories from Old and New Testament.
What impacted me the most was seeing and learning about Christ Pantocrator, the "Ruler of All". While his face looks unskillfully distorted, it was actually intended to be half life-like and half lifeless to symbolize Christ as both human and divine.
Majestic and impressive mosaic of Christ Pantocrator, the "Ruler of All"
The Monreale cloister seen from the roof
The roof terraces also offers commanding views over Palermo, the Conca d'Oro (Golden Valley) and the Tyrrhenian Sea
Immediately after leaving the church, we sinned. The bus driver's ticket supply was "finite" and we rode it anyway. Palermo, we owe you €3.
After dinner we tried to follow our B&B's advice and have a drink overlooking a piazza. Instead we stumbled upon La Vucciria. After the day market closes, it becomes a lively night scene with great ambiance.
Lively night scene at La Vucciria
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